• Hammerli 208 vs 208s

    Hammerli 208 vs 208s

    He described both basic and detailed cleaning and maintenance as well as adjustments to the trigger. This should not be done soley from notes, and is only necessary on a semi-annual or annual basis, depending on how much shooting is done.

    Therefore, detailed notes will not be covered in this document. Carter emphasized that NO chemicals or cleaners should be used for any portion of the cleaning of the s pistol.

    Basic cleaning should be done after each match. One specially formed brass brush. This brush is used to clean the chamber. It is made by bending a. One M16 style cleaning brush toothbrush style with smaller brush at end of handle.

    Cotton swabs to use for cleaning and for lubrication. Nylon cord such as weedeater line or similar. This will be used to PULL cleaning patches through the bore. Prepare one end of the cord by melting it so that it clears the bore but will hold on to patches.

    Form the other end into a point that will easily pierce the. CLP type lubricant. Remove the trigger bar spring and the bar itself. Note that the spring is supposed to be bent to the side. Do NOT attempt to straighten it. Additionally, the curve should be circular. If the spring is flat or the curved area has a flat section on top, replace the spring.

    If there is a buildup of debris under the ejector, carefully remove the recoil spring by pushing in on the end with a small flat blade screwdriver and turning so that the post clears the slot in the frame. Do NOT point the spring toward your face as you remove it, as it is under pressure and could easily fly out of the frame.A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between.

    Hosted by Pilkguns. Privacy Terms. TargetTalk A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between. Quick links. Hammerli vs International If you wish to make a donation to this forum's operationit would be greatly appreciated. Forum rules If you wish to make a donation to this forum's operationit would be greatly appreciated.

    Actually, it's really the International that I'm wondering about. I think I understand the to s changes. Did the International come before the or after? Compared to the s the trigger guard is different, the extractor is different, and the trigger is single stage and not two-stage. I think only the are designated as such. There were several "models" where the only difference e. I even think although I'd have to check that the S was not marked as such.

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    The only one I'm sure that it had the model number on the gun is the If you're looking at acheck the design of the trigger. And the earliest version is basically the same gun as a short barreled The vast majority of "International" Hammerlis on the market areso anything else would surprise me. If you have doubts, send me the serial number and I can check with the literature I've got.His tips for care of the Hammerli s are excellent and are recommended for any fine.

    Many thanks to Larry for contributing this article. The most important area to keep clean is the chamber. These guns obtain phenomenal accuracy, in part, because of their tight chamber dimensions. If the chamber is allowed to build up an accumulation of carbon or lead, feeding, extraction, ejection and worse problems can occur. The method of cleaning that I prefer is to bend a bore brush into an "L" shape with the short leg being only as long as a spent case.

    This will allow you to clean the chamber without getting the brush into the rifling. Insert it into the chamber and rotate back and forth to loosen any carbon or lead that may be stuck to the walls. Follow this with a "Q-Tip" to get this debris out of the gun before putting a patch through the bore.

    Bore I never use a metal brush in the bore. The bore should come clean with, at most, a nylon brush and some cleaner. NEVER clean from the muzzle. The crown of the barrel is immensely important to accuracy. A small nick or scrape that cannot be seen with the naked eye can open groups threefold or more. Take the time to disassemble the slide from the frame and do it from the breech. You'll be glad you did.

    A pull-through device made with nylon "weedwacker" string works good for a quick patch through the bore, but a thorough cleaning requires a jag from the breech end. Frame A toothbrush and "Q-Tips" work well to clean the area of the feed ramp, ejector and slide face between matches.

    Be careful in the area of the slide stop, not to snag the small hair spring with a brush. The sear and hammer are specially lubed at the factory for extended life of these parts.

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    If you wash the lube off, you may feel no difference, but these parts will wear very quickly and they are not cheap. The frame should only be immersed during a complete teardown of the pistol by a qualified gunsmith. Relubing of the sear and hammer is not possible without removing them from the frame.

    hammerli 208 vs 208s

    Regarding oiling, do not drop oil on the gun from the bottle. Instead put a drop on a "Q-Tip" and wipe onto the areas of contact between the frame and slide. Too much lube attracts more contaminants and holds them there to wear your pistol.

    The lube is not intended to augment function, but to prevent wear. Magazines Often forgotten in the cleaning regimen, magazines play an important role in the functioning of your Hammerli. Some of the by-products of combustion in a blowback action wind up in the magazines. This debris, added to the bullet lube that comes off inside the mags, can make them sluggish or cause them to stick in the process of feeding the next cartridge. After disassembly, use a nylon bore brush in cal.

    hammerli 208 vs 208s

    Finish with a good rinse in solvent followed by some light oil again using a "Q-Tip finishes the job. If you have an older gun or many rounds fired, check the track where the follower button rides for chatter marks. These will give problems sooner or later and should be replaced. The metal housing is available separately. A microscopic piece of dirt passing through the bore at feet per second can do serious damage The spring for the trigger bar is supposed to have a slight twist.

    Don't straighten it. Be careful with magazine bases.This post was contributed by a community member. The views expressed here are the author's own. The Hammerli pistol is the never beaten, never equaled competition handgun, in terms of its scores never having been bettered.

    The gun uses a single stage, adjustable trigger, with adjustable rear sight that is mounted on a bridge over the slide, and not on the slide itself.

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    Accuracy of the gun generally is about 0. The Hammerli test targets are better than that, but are not entirely honest, due to the way they are obtained at the factory. The gun can use 8 or 10 round magazines, with the 8 rd. The gun is useful with high accuracy to 50 M and beyond to M by a good marksman. Rails are available for optical sights, with several mounting systems available. Many prefer to use a gram weight on the gun for feel, but the main effect of the weight actually is as a barrel and gun vibration tuner, if accuracy is at issue.

    Full target grips are the most common ones used, but slab grips are available. When those are used, a shorter magazine latch is desirable.

    Extended base magazines can be used to reach the bottom of the target grips, which normally are well below the base of the standard magazine. The gun is a little large for concealed carry and the rear sight tends to catch on clothing, thus leading to preference for the for that purpose. However, the elevation-adjustable rear sight and the longer range can be real advantages in the Also, only one weight is available for the For thea variety are avaialable from 80 to grams.

    The has only the most minimal first shot inaccuracy, retains high accuracy through at least 20 rounds in rapid fire, and the accuracy is extremely good. With the FN, first round accuracy is quite poor by comparison, and collateral damage is hard to control. By 20 rounds, accuracy also deteriorates for a number of reasons. However, some skill im magazine changes while firing is needed, if 20 rounds in rapid fire are desired from the Hammerli due to the 8 or 10 round magazine.

    A relatively rare version of the is available with a "Colt" style magazine release, and safety.

    hammerli 208 vs 208s

    Most do not have a safety. Some have a coarse external trigger pull adjustment, as well as the fine adustment that is internal to the slide area. Trigger pull weight can be set as low as about grams or a bit over 1 lb depending on lubricant usedand as high as about about 2 kg 5 lbs.

    The Highland Park ban status of the gun is difficult to determine with precision. It may be a banned assault weapon due to a technical detail of the construction. As with some of the other guns discussed, there is a problem of vagueness in the wording of the HP ordinance in this regard. Thewhich will not be available at this event, is similar but a low cost production version. The main problem with the is the finish to the barrel, which is very reflective. The triggers also are slightly different, and a bit easier to adjust on the and the later with a wide trigger body.

    Coming next most likely, the S. Better, but perhaps not. The views expressed in this post are the author's own.A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between. Hosted by Pilkguns. Moderators: pilkgunsIsabel Privacy Terms.

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    TargetTalk A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between.

    Quick links. Hammerli "Crisp" Trigger? Brought to you by Zero Bullet Company Inc. I have a Newer serial Hammerli Really want to take the roll out of the trigger. Seems like it cant be done Can any one help?

    Re: Hammerli "Crisp" Trigger? I'm getting one this weekend. But i have worked on the Trailside. They are almost identical in design. I convert them to almost crisp but slight roll you can only feel if you get chicken finger. I basically cut down sear engagement modify hammer and sear to minimize roll. Don't know of another way. I try to get it to feel like abut it has a pivoting trigger. Are you taking material off of the sear nose? I am very familiar with the trailside components. Here is how i belive the trigger adjustments to be: -"1st stage" adjustment, adds weight to the whole trigger, any wieght on this stage is added to the second stage -"2nd stage" adjustment still just increases the overall heavy "feel" of the trigger.

    I assume you could back out the plunger housing with the combi tool to increase the time you feel only the first stage Any pictures of the job would help, Thank you again. Not so for the International. Yes, I do have some creep in, as the manual states.

    Without it, I think you run the risk of doubling or not cocking.

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    Having said that, I do share with people I know locally because I can make sure that nothing unsafe is being performed. I work on and repair many hacked on pistols and have decided that this is necessary.

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    Sorry ; p. OK then. Thanks anyway for the spark of the idea. Hopefully somebody will be able to give me some direction soon.A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between. Hosted by Pilkguns. Privacy Terms. TargetTalk A forum to talk about Olympic style shooting, rifle or pistol, 10 meters to 50 meters, and whatever is in between.

    Quick links. Hammerli or ? If you wish to make a donation to this forum's operationit would be greatly appreciated. Forum rules If you wish to make a donation to this forum's operationit would be greatly appreciated. Please can someone tell me how to differentiate between the and the ? One is available for sale, an early-ish example, no model number on frame. Also, what should the muzzle crown look like and should the muzzle end of the barrel be blued or natural metal?

    This one has the tiniest countersink for a crown and the end of the barrel is not blued - it looks surface-ground. Beadblasted instead of polished, simplified front sight base etc. Functions are the same, and so is the precision.

    Cleaning and Adjustments for the Hammerli 208s

    There is even a S corresponding to the S. I can't remember having seen a blued face on any or There are differences! The bbl contour is different on the S - a bit more rouded on the top. I know! The safety is also different. The S is a round knob while the S is a lever. If you want pictures, let me know. They saythe finish is different - more lustre on the S but that is one difference that is not obviuos to me! As far as performance is concerned no different all the differences are cosmetic.

    An easy way to tell is the should have fine ribs machined down the top of the barrel from the breach to the start of the Front sight base. Yes a non-blued muzzle is normal. My wife had a s from about and it did have s on the side. Dis-regard what the previous posted said about safeties, they are only fitted to USA models blame the lawyers!

    They do have a weakness and that is the magazine bodies. If you shoot tens of thousands of rounds they wear out where the rims of the rounds pop up. In our experience Hammerli replaced these no charge. Let me know if you want any pics. They clearly say s and S on the pistols. They BOTH shoot. It has a round trigger guard and the shoe does not slide back and forth. It is an International witha single stage trigger.

    The shoe has a much different curve than the S and S. This is what I found.Liquid drain cleaners are also bad newsthey eat away at the pipes. Here's how to unclog a toilet without a plunger. The location of the main turnoff source is one of the 35 things every homeowner should know to save money and prevent big screw-ups.

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